Photographic visual for Film Looks

Film Looks

Film looks

Graded on your device. The file never goes anywhere.

Eight emulations, opened on their own, each one saying what it does to a face before you pick it.

Add a photo and you'll see eighteen looks built from your own picture, not from someone else's sample shot.Portraits are the hard test for a film look, so open one if you have it.

Nothing to hand?

Eight stocks, described by behaviour

The eight looks in this pack are colour negative and slide behaviours: a toe that holds the shadows off the floor, a shoulder that rolls the highlights back before they clip, and a colour cast that leans one way in the dark end and the other way in the light. The table below is the pack written out, and the second line against each entry is the one that matters, because skin is what a colour decision gets judged on. A grade can be gorgeous on a wall of brick and unusable on the person standing in front of it.

LookWhat it does, and what it does to skin
Everyday NegativeA restrained colour negative: a slight toe in the shadows, warm highlights, nothing exaggerated.Leaves skin almost where it started, half a step warmer.
Warm PortraitBuilt around faces: warmth in the midtones, highlights rolled off early so bright cheeks keep their shape.Pushes skin toward peach and holds the brightest parts back from white.
Cool NegativeCyan in the shadows, restrained yellows, the grey of an overcast afternoon.Cools skin noticeably — flattering on a pale subject, sallow on a warm one.
Slide FiftySlide behaviour: deep blacks, saturated colour, and highlights that clip rather than roll.Unforgiving on skin — every warm patch gets warmer. Best on landscape and architecture.
Kiosk GoldThe warm, slightly heavy-handed colour of film developed over a shop counter.Strong golden cast on skin, which is either the whole point or entirely wrong.
Blue HourCold highlights over a warm floor — the split you get twenty minutes after the sun has gone.Drains warmth from skin. Works on a figure in a landscape, less so on a portrait.
Green FieldA touch of green through the midtones and cool shadows; foliage separates instead of going to mush.Pulls a little colour out of skin. Fine in a wide shot, thin in a close one.
Neutral ProThe quietest look here. A gentle curve, honest colour, and nothing pushed anywhere.Closest to leaving skin alone. Use it when a look would be a distraction.

Reading the skin note before you commit

Human vision is unusually fussy about faces and unusually forgiving about everything else. A shift of a couple of degrees in the midtones is invisible on a hillside and immediately wrong on a cheek, which is why the rail alone is not enough on a portrait: eighteen thumbnails at 160 pixels do not show you what a look did to skin, they show you what it did to the overall impression. So each entry says it in words.

Three of these lean warm — Warm Portrait, Kiosk Gold and Everyday Negative — and they differ mostly in how far they go and where they put the warmth. Two lean cool. Cool Negative flatters a pale subject and can leave a warmer one looking unwell; Blue Hour takes the warmth out of the light entirely and is better with a figure in a landscape than with a face filling the frame. Slide Fifty and Green Field are both hard on skin for opposite reasons, one by pushing saturation and one by pulling colour out of the midtones. Neutral Pro is the one to reach for when the look would be a distraction.

The habit worth building: pick from the rail with your eye, then read the note, then hold the space bar. If the original wins the moment it comes back, the look was doing the talking rather than the photograph.

Where an emulation stops being honest

  • These are colour responses, not film. Real stock brings grain, a particular way of falling apart under exposure, and a physical process that responds differently in every part of the frame. What a table can reproduce is the colour and the tonal shape, which is most of what people recognise — and it is worth knowing that the rest is missing rather than assuming it arrived with the name.
  • An emulation applied to a phone photograph is stacked on top of decisions that were already made. The picture in your camera roll has been through the phone's own colour rendering before you ever saw it, and a look here is a second opinion laid over the first, not a replacement for it. That is fine, and it is why the same look lands differently on a file from a phone and on one from a camera set to a flatter profile.

Questions about the pack

Why do none of these carry the name of a real film stock?
Because whether a colour transform may be sold under a manufacturer's product name is a trademark question, and it is not one a piece of software should answer for itself. The names here describe the behaviour instead — which is the more useful label in any case, since arriving at a page knowing that a particular four-digit stock number turns skies teal is a fairly specialised way to shop for a look.
What makes an emulation different from just warming a photograph up?
The shape of the response. Warming a picture multiplies the red channel and divides the blue, and it does that equally to a shadow and to a highlight. An emulation moves the three channels by different amounts at different brightnesses: a toe that holds the shadows back, a shoulder that rolls the highlights off before they clip, and a colour cast that changes sign between the dark end and the light end. That is why a film look survives a bright window and a warmth slider does not.
Every one of these makes my portrait look slightly different. Which is right?
None of them, and that is the point of the skin note against each entry. Colour negative stocks were designed by people making a judgement about what a face should look like, and they disagreed with each other: one lifts warmth into the cheeks, another pulls it out and leaves the subject cooler than the room was. Read the note, then hold the space bar and compare against the original. The one that flatters your subject is the right one for that photograph and possibly wrong for the next.
Can I dial an emulation back to something subtler?
That is what the strength slider is for, and film looks are the place it earns the most. Somewhere between 35 and 60 per cent you usually get the character of the stock — the way it handles skin, the direction its shadows lean — without the saturation and the cast that make a picture announce which filter it has been through. Full strength suits a photograph that was flat to begin with.

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